Home View from Underground ‘The train’s the thing wherein to catch a five-star dinner’

‘The train’s the thing wherein to catch a five-star dinner’

by Benjamin Kabak

Riding the subway on a daily basis can often seem mundane. We board the same trains; we see the same people; we wait in the same spot on the same platform at the same time every morning. By and large, the subways fail to surprise, and when they do, the surprises generally come in the form of unwelcome delays or trains cars that are more crowded than usual. That’s just the way of things in the world of underground commuting.

Now and then, though, intrepid — or foolhardy — New Yorkers try to shake us from our routine. We hear about guerrilla art projects in abandoned stations or spot the Rebel Alliance on the 6 train. Every year, thousands of people ride the subways with no pants on. Some people find the performance art stunts entertaining; others are annoyed by them. Still, they continue.

In fact, recently, a Rockaway-bound L train played host to a clandestine dining experience while a troupe of Shakespeare actors have taken to performing in the subway. Melena Ryzik of The Times found herself eating on the L this past Sunday. She reports of boarding an empty train at 8th Avenue and finding it taken over by hungry and in-the-know straphangers. She writes:

Within moments, a car of the waiting train was transformed into a traveling bistro, complete with tables, linens, fine silverware and a bow-tied maître d’hôtel. “Is this your first time dining on the second car of the L train?” he asked, as guests filed in.

They had been lured by the promise of a clandestine dining experience. (“Please go to the North East Corner of 8th Ave and 14th St,” read the instructions e-mailed early that morning. “There will be a tall slender woman there with jet black hair who is holding an umbrella. Please just go up and introduce yourself. Her name is Michele and she is quite lovely, but no matter how hard you press she won’t tell you about the adventure you are going on.”)

The event was the work of several supper clubs, and the menu they devised was luxurious: caviar, foie gras and filet mignon, and for dessert, a pyramid of chocolate panna cotta, dusted with gold leaf. All of it was accessible with a MetroCard swipe (Michele handed out single-ride passes) and orchestrated with clockwork precision. The six-course extravaganza took only a half-hour.

It wasn’t rush hour, so seating was easy. The tables (lap-width black planks, with holes cut to fit water glasses) were tied to the subway railings with twine. Tucking in behind them felt something like being buckled into a roller coaster. At 1:30 p.m., a few minutes ahead of schedule, the train lurched off.

As the train proceeded east, passengers found themselves thrust into a meal while chefs from various restaurants boarded the L to serve their course. One rider had thoughts echoed by many. “I had this fantastic lunch,” Paul Smith, a CUNY professor said to The Times, “very exquisite. And then I thought, am I going to get arrested?”

The MTA did not seem to find the event all that charming though. “A dinner party on the L train?” Spokesman Charles Seaton said. “No. Subway trains are for riding, not for holding parties.”

If dinner on the trains isn’t your thing — after all, not everyone believes the subways are for dining — how about some Shakespeare instead? Jo Piazza of The Wall Street Journal met with two actors from Brooklyn who reenact Shakespeare on the subway. Paul Marino, 29 years old, and Fred Jones, 26, spend 20 hours a week, primarily on the N, R, J, M or Z trains, acting out scenes from “Macbeth,” “Romeo and Juliet” and “Hamlet,” among others.

So far the two, who are featured in the video above, have found audiences receptive, but drunk riders will harass them. The pair, who make a few bucks per performance, have even managed to finagle some dates with the women in their crowds. Perhaps all the world is truly a stage after all.

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11 comments

pea-jay May 4, 2011 - 9:01 am

I saw the two Shakespearean actors a few weekends back when I was riding the L back with my daughters. I certainly enjoyed it and it was something different for a change. I generally enjoy any decent performance and will spare some change to anyone with at least some talent.

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ferryboi May 4, 2011 - 9:43 am

Love Shakespeare, kinda like the subway. Don’t like Shakespeare on the subway. In a related note, why does the MTA allow drum-bangers and other “musicians” to perform REALLY, REALLY LOUD at Union Square and other stations? You totally can not hear announcements as to when a train is arriving. I can only imagine what would happen in an emergency if the PD or FD needed to make an announcement. As if the Union Square station isn’t noisy enough.

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nycpat May 4, 2011 - 10:53 am

My visceral reaction; It is morally wrong to play to a captive audience. Bad karma.

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pea-jay May 4, 2011 - 2:35 pm

True enough. How about designate the last car of each train as the conversation/performance car. Listening to personal music devices would be frowned on, performances and conversation with fellow straphangers would be encouraged. I’m sure there’s enough extroverted riders to make that work. And with that, make the remaining cars distraction-free. No performances, begging, loud music or conversation. I’m sure that’ll make everyone else happy.

Probably too quirky AND regimented to pull off though

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SEAN May 4, 2011 - 11:20 am

A dinner party on the subway? COOL! It’s a lot better than bible thumpers who obviously need psychiatric treatment.

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Matthias May 5, 2011 - 10:51 am

AMEN brother!

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Ed May 4, 2011 - 12:07 pm

There have been other events similar to this, which fortunately I have missed so far.

nycpat is right. It is wrong to play to a captive argument. These events are a blight, probably slightly worse than subway panhandlers on the scale of these things.

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Marc Shepherd May 4, 2011 - 12:11 pm

And the poor, clueless MTA is “not amused.” What harm was done?

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John-2 May 4, 2011 - 12:30 pm

I suppose the MTA could go back to ordering nothing but R-10-style trains and get rid of the timers on the tracks if they wanted to solve the problem — no one could hear the Shakespearean actors (or the musicians, or the panhandlers, or anyone else) on one of those cars when the windows were open, while at the same time the winds blowing through from the cars’ open windows due to the lack of AC would make any dining experience a little less than pleasant.

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Subutay Musluoglu May 4, 2011 - 4:33 pm

What harm was done? How about the introduction of food into the subway environment, a place that needs no further inducement for the rat population. Whether it’s the no pants day, white tablecloth dinners, Shakespeare performances, or whatever, it’s just more cooler than thou hipsters trying to outdo each other creatively with us as their captive audience. Get a life!

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Video of the Day: Fine dining on the L :: Second Ave. Sagas May 12, 2011 - 1:39 am

[…] know all about the folks along the L train who put on a movable feast nearly two weeks ago. The Times reported on the culinary ride underground and spoke to those who […]

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